Flames licking the base of a rectangular pan. Into the pan, a splash of egg mixture, consisting of well beaten eggs, mirin, shoyu and a sprinkle of sugar. Roll, splash, roll. Warm or chilled, the lady behind the counter asks. A toasty roll of grilled egg ‘Tamago-yaki’ 卵焼きon a skewer, I engulf. Lukewarm, crumbly but not flaky, with gentle nudge of sweetness. The crowds in Tsukiji didn’t matter anymore.